Ambience: With twin giant terra-cotta Xian-dynasty warriors flanking the entrance, a lofty ceiling and understated crème décor, the main salon resembles a museum gallery. For a tryst, book a table on the mezzanine floor with plush red curtains.
Food: If the seven-page menu leaves you dazed, go for one of three tasting menus. The feast kicks off with a suite of kill-me-softly starters—most notably “Sqwab With Lettuce,” a build-it-yourself treat of minced chicken, fried collard greens and spiced cashews stuffed into a crisp shell of iceberg lettuce. For the adventurous, there’s a fully pedigreed Peking duck ($50).
Wine list: The selection spans both the Old and New worlds. If you don’t feel up to a Château Mouton Rothschild ($905) there are plenty of down-to-earth wines from Australia, Spain and Chile.
Dessert: Temptations range from the sensible (tropical-fruit mix) to the surreal (mango mousse with a banana coulis, custard cream and chocolate sauce). Chase with a stiff Brazilian espresso. -Mac Margolis
title: “Mr. Lam Rio De Janeiro” ShowToc: true date: “2022-12-13” author: “Jill Oaks”
Ambience: With twin giant terra-cotta Xian-dynasty warriors flanking the entrance, a lofty ceiling and understated crème décor, the main salon resembles a museum gallery. For a tryst, book a table on the mezzanine floor with plush red curtains.
Food: If the seven-page menu leaves you dazed, go for one of three tasting menus. The feast kicks off with a suite of kill-me-softly starters—most notably “Sqwab With Lettuce,” a build-it-yourself treat of minced chicken, fried collard greens and spiced cashews stuffed into a crisp shell of iceberg lettuce. For the adventurous, there’s a fully pedigreed Peking duck ($50).
Wine list: The selection spans both the Old and New worlds. If you don’t feel up to a Château Mouton Rothschild ($905) there are plenty of down-to-earth wines from Australia, Spain and Chile.
Dessert: Temptations range from the sensible (tropical-fruit mix) to the surreal (mango mousse with a banana coulis, custard cream and chocolate sauce). Chase with a stiff Brazilian espresso. -Mac Margolis
